Paver Installation Procedures

1. Paving Stone General Installation
First measure the area you intend to pave. Determine square footage by multiplying (length x width = square footage), add 5% for breakage and cutting. Measure lineal feet of open edges, those not up against a permanent structure such as a house, etc. This will indicate lineal footage of paver required. Draw a plan on a piece of paper showing all important dimensions. Take this plan to your supplier so that he can help you determine the proper amount of materials needed to complete your project.

Using the 3-4-5 triangle method to determine a perpendicular line, measure parallel lines from the perpendicular line to establish a boundary. Place stakes every 4 feet to 6 feet and at corners. These stakes should be 8" outside of the planned edge of the pavers.

NOTE: You can check to make sure an area is square by making sure both sets of cross corners measure the exact same distance.

2. Excavation
NOTE: Before any digging call your local utility companies to locate any underground lines.

Using a flat shovel cut evenly to remove sod/dirt to a depth of at least 5 1/8" (13cm) to allow room for 2 3/8" (6cm) paver, 3/4" (19mm) compacted sand, minimum of 2" (5cm) compacted crushed stone base (more soil is very soft). If the house is of new construction there might be potential for settling next to the foundation. We suggest you increase base thickness to 6" (15cm) or a total excavation of 9" (23cm) within 2 feet (1 meter) of new foundation. Excavation should be 6" (15cm) wider on sides where paver edge restraint is to be used.

3. Base Preparation
This is very important. The more time and effort you put into the preparation of the base, the better the project and the longer it will last. Use either 3/4" (19mm) or 1/2" (13mm) graded base material that includes sizes down to fine dust. This material is easier to compact and will give a tight close knit surface. Method of Compaction. First, run your plate compactor over the excavated soil. (Make sure no soil gets stuck to the bottom of the plate tamper). Each pass should overlap the previous one by about 4". Now spread your gravel base material out evenly in about 2" layers. If material is dry and dusty use a garden hose to thoroughly wet it down, this helps make the gravel faster to compact and easier to rake. Starting around the outer perimeter start with the plate compactor and again overlap each pass about 4" working towards the center. You should make at least two complete passes for each layer. Use your hard tooth garden rake to rake out any unevenness. (Try spreading material with the rake turned upside down).

When finished with the base it should be very smooth and flat. If you were to put a straight edge flat on the surface there should be no more than 1/4" (6mm) (maximum) gap anywhere along the straight edge and the base.

Slope and Grade are important to ensure proper run-off. It is best to plan at least a 1/4" (6mm) per foot drop, but try not to exceed 1/2" (12mm) per foot.

4. Sand Setting Bed
NOTE: It is important to keep your sand dry. Always keep your sand covered in case of rain.

Do not attempt to level any area or surface irregularities with the sand. This will result in an uneven surface and unwanted settling.

Lay your screed guides 1" (25mm) electrical conduit, 1" strips of wood or other suitable rigid 1" guide) 4" to 6" apart and parallel. Work from side to side with your screed guides, screed a 10" section of sand. You will use you 6 ft. to 8 ft. 2" x 6" to loosely spread the sand and to strike off any excess. DO NOT walk on or work from your screeded sand. Do not worry about voids that screed guides have left after you have removed them. You will lightly fill them with sand and trowel them smooth as you are laying the pavers.

5. Laying the Pavers (Instructions for Small Areas Only)
Starting from a permanent edge such as a house, driveway, or even a piece of paver, lay your first pair starting from either side. (As you start laying pavers, work from right to left, then left to right and so on, one row of pavers at a time.) Set the pavers lightly onto the sand, NEVER press them or hammer them in. Be sure to allow 6" (15cm) to install paver on the open sides later. If you are starting with paver as a starting point (read #7 now), every 4 feet or so run a string line across front of the laying edge. If there are some pavers lagging behind go back about 3 rows of pavers and using a small pry bar, wedge between the pavers and pry the pavers forward until they are in line again. Do not worry too much about gaps at this point, they will even out during tamping later. Many different laying patterns are possible, but herringbone provides the best surface interlock.

Set the pavers hand tight, but DO NOT use a hammer to adjust the pavers or set them. If you are doing the project over a couple of days, cover the entire area with plastic overnight if rain is expected. Do not lay pavers over the 6" (15cm) extended base area where paver is to be set later.